Ring of Beara - Indescribable Beauty

Susan and I spent the day driving around the Ring of Beara, the less well known cousin of the Ring of Kerry.  The scenery was indescribably beautiful, with the type of panoramic scenery that a camera just can't capture.  While driving there, we stumbled across yet another castle by the side of the road, Carriganass Castle, built in 1541 by Clan Chieftain Dermot O'Sullivan Beare.-Dan

Just one of the many ruined castles that dot the countryside. 

Susan:

In the southwest corner of Ireland, five long peninsulas reach out into the icy Atlantic ocean like fingers on an outstretched hand.   In exploring three of the peninsulas in this part of this country, Dan and I were not only able to experience the exquisite beauty of this magnificent region, but were also fortunate enough to discover those areas where Irish is spoken natively.  

We journeyed from our B & B at Macroom on an overcast day, expecting rain, but hoping for sun as we drove along the rolling countryside.  The rain won out as we arrived in Glengariff, the southernmost town on the Beara peninsula (the middle finger of the peninsula hand).   Our expectations weren't high for good weather as we hugged  the coastline with rain sprinkling down on Bantry Bay and the picturesque towns on the south side of the Ring of Beara.    But, the Irish gods smiled on us by the time we reached Castletownbeare, a quaint little fishing village  not far from the tip.  The sky shone bright blue with nary a dark cloud.

The parking lot brought us right up to a marina with fishing boats quietly resting on one side and the main street of the  almost deserted town on the other.  As we got out of our car we wondered, Where is everyone?   Very few people could be seen as we walked up the hill of the main street.  Stores, cafes, and restaurants all had closed signs posted and having left our B & B rather early, we were looking  for lunch possibilities.

After roaming down the main street all the way to the top in search of anything that was open, and then passing by a church on the way back,  we realized that it was Sunday morning and only 11:30.   Ooops.  The Irish take their Sunday mornings seriously.

Just outside of Castletownbearhaven

Being the keeper of the map as Dan drives, I suggested we press onward to Allihies, a town on the tip of the peninsula, where I had visited four years ago.  Along the way, the coastal scenery with its high cliffs cutting off and dropping suddenly into crystal sapphire water persuaded us to get out of the car and take some photos.   Lunch would have to wait.

 

 

Tip of the Beara Peninsula.

From the roadside, we could see the colorful town of Allihies in the distance, where we hoped at least one of their pubs would welcome us with open arms.  After all, even a tiny town such as this would have at least two pubs and it would be afternoon by the time we arrived.

 

Allihies from the roadside, hoping for a pub

 

O'Neill's Bar & Restaurant didn't disappoint us, though we were their only customers until about 12:30.    I had the usual, fish and chips, which is one of the best things about Ireland.  Dan had the chicken panini.

 

Dan's always happy to find lunch.

 

Allihies Sunday afternoon

While driving along toward Allihies, we saw a road that led to Dursey Head at the very tip of the Ring of Beara.  Dan remembered reading in a guide book about a cable car that takes people from Dursey Head to an Island across on the other side.   What the heck? We backtracked back to the road that led to Dursey Head.

This curious cow on the way to Dursey Head must have wondered what I was doing taking her photo.

The sheep just don't have respect for motorists in Ireland.

Apparently, they're pretty spoiled as the locals let them do pretty much whatever they want.

 

Dursey Head, was quite pretty, though a little windy and chilly.   Dan and I opted out of the cable car after seeing it first hand.   Though probably safe, neither of us was dying to get to the island on the other side, particularly after seeing the cable car up close.

 

 

 

Looks to me like a converted dumpster.  We opted out of this adventure.  I asked the ticket guy what was on the other side and he just shrugged. 

 

Everything in Ireland is written both in English and Irish. I'm impressed that they are trying to revive the old language.    We decided to complete the Beara Peninsula and save Moscow for another trip.   Leaving Dursey Head, we looked back one last time.

 

Last look at Dursey Head

 

The roads of this journey kept us alert as we met up with RVs and busses along stretches that are barely wide enough for a family of goats.  And I'm always wanting to stop for photos.   Dan allows me pretty much camera freedom, stopping along the way whenever possible.

 

On the way to Eyeries

After rounding the tip of the Ring of Beara, we found our way to the north side of the peninsula and the colorful town of Eyeries.  (note:  Janice, here are some color ideas for you.)   One of the memories I'll always have of Ireland is the magnificent colorful towns as well as the beautiful colors of the people. (more about this later-it has to do with redheads). 

 

  

After feasting our eyes on the glorious colors of Eyeries, we decided it was time to move on toward Kenmare, on the northern end of the Beara Peninsula, where we would be spending the night.   Kenmare is also the beginning point of the Ring of Kerry peninsula, just north of the Ring of Beara.     It had been a magnificent day!